New PDF release: British Fashion Design: Rag Trade or Image Industry?

By Angela McRobbie

British style layout explores the tensions among type as paintings shape, and the calls for of a ruthlessly advertisement undefined. in accordance with interviews and examine carried out over a couple of years, Angela McRobbie charts the movement of paintings college model graduates into the undefined; their makes an attempt to reconcile education with perform, and their precarious place among the dual helps of the schooling process and the industrial zone. Stressing the social context of cultural creation, McRobbie specializes in British type and its graduate designers as items of youngster highway tradition, and analyses how designers from different backgrounds have created a labour marketplace for themselves, remodelling `enterprise tradition` to fit their very own careers.

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LCF students also find work as highly-skilled pattern cutters, or in fashion retail and merchandising. The background of LCF students today remains more socially mixed than their art school counterparts. Many are drawn from ethnic minorities and hope to bring their skills back to either the Asian and Greek Cypriot fashion businesses of North and East London or else to the Afro-Caribbean fashion sector in South London. What emerges from this brief account of the growth of fashion education is a double set of determinations at work.

111). In 1970, following student disruptions in 1968 at the Hornsey School of Art and elsewhere, a further report was published by Coldstream. This time the main objective was to do away with the fine art bias which had underpinned the First Coldstream Report of 1960 and replace it with a more up-to-date and relevant programme for design education. The experimental nature of fine art was now judged to be ‘incompatible with the inherently pragmatic nature of design disciplines’ (Ashwin 1975:124).

There were the trade associations which put fashion closer to the apprenticeship systems for tailoring. Worse still, there were the rag trade associations of the ‘sweated industries’. In fact, educational provision in fashion for working-class girls grew out of initiatives developed by progressive local authorities, such as the London County Council, to establish trade schools to improve the skill level in the fashion industry overall and to counter the exploitative conditions of the rag trade.

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